Movin' on up.....or at least over

Those following my extremely sporatic and quirky blog may be interested to know that it has moved......to my website. As part of a continued effort to stive for more professionalism, I have upgraded my website. The first step of which is to incorporate my blog and to fill in all of those posts that have been half-written for months now. Some additional features to soon include:
-Searchable Galleries
-New featured projects
-Extended color pallette
-Outbound links and partners page

To reach my new blog, go to:
www.newboldstone.com/blog3

test blog post

As part of my migration of my blog to my new site, I am testing to see if posts made to this blog will autopopulate on my new blog.

Moving a website is like moving the sphinx

Last week I began the effort of moving my website from one host to another. Its been so long since I started the website, that I dont even remember why we picked that particular host. However, due to some chronic email issues and generally poor service, the switch is underway. The host that I have found has lower cost, more features and so far, better service. To boot - I will now be able to host this blog within my own website!
As it is also about time to get some of my more recent projects on there, this should work out well.
Unfortunately, its all easier said than done. Like many other things you deal with as a business owner, you need to learn all of the technical details of the industry in order to make this operation happen. The key is in the "Domain Name Pointers", which is kind of like changing your address at the post office, except you also need to speak your landlord (your old domain host) and get them to give you permission (the key) to change it, and then give that to your new landlord (new domain host), and they have to fill out the paperwork for you at the post office. hence, the whole thing doesnt happen in 30 seconds like a computerized transfer should, it takes 4 days to change the pointers.

The down side is that website and eamil are both down for those 4 days, which is, shall we say, disadvantageous.

In the meantime, if anyone needs to contact me, they can use jnewbold2000@gmail.com

Avian madness

As an active member of the design community and a contributer to the local community at large, Newbold Stone attends a number of events each year, particularly those that involve design competitions. There were two this year, Hello Birdie and Evolution, that involved the constuction of a birdhouse.

Mark Lind, a local architect with whom I have collaborated in the past had learned of one of the competitions and we were able to work together again to create a birdhouse made of concrete and empty champagne bottles to be a joyful spot to rest the feathers.


First, the tops of the bottles are cut at an angle


The mold, with several bottles. The best seemed to be Cristalino, as it was thick and consistant in shape....also inexpensive and tasty!



The bottles were held in place by a strong armature with rubber ends, then the concrete poured around them.

Repairing Damage

One of the most common lines of questioning that I face is: "Why chose concrete over granite?". There are a number of reasons, but one of the less emphasized is "It is repairable".

Much like insurance, it doesn't seem like a big deal until you need it. Recently an equipment failure during the transport/installation of a rather large piece caused a major chip and the piece needed to be repaired.

This is the chip that came out...about 3 inches x 1 inch, ouch!

First step is to fill the hole. I make sure to mix up a VERY large batch, about 2-3 Gallons worth. The closer that you can recreate the conditions of the original pour, the closer the color match will be.

It gets covered with plastic to help prevent shrinkage and cracking.

When it cures, it looks pretty obvious (and ugly).

A good bit of grinding and polishing reveals the sand and blends the color.

Pinholes get filled in just like the original piece and then the finish goes on. Complete, it blends almost perfectly. You can tell but only if you really know what to look for. Otherwise it just seems to be a natural variation of the piece. Not as easy with granite or marble.

Still beating Icestone

Recently I had a designer contact me about a small vanity that they were doing for a client. The client had seen a sample of Icestone's "Sky Pearl" and fell in love. Unfortunately, since Icestone sells by the slab and ships out of New York City(that ain't no Pace Picante), the cost of a small vanity was astronomical.

The designer asked if I could relicate the look. Even with the upcharge for developing a custom mix (yes, if you want something unusual, I do have to charge you for my time), the estimate was lower than the "yankee" option. Also, I had to assure the client and designer that if I wasnt able to come close to the sample they wanted, then I wouldnt charge them for it.

Top Left: Original

Rounds: Initial trials

Bottom Right: Final Product

At first, I tried with the glass I had around the shop, which was more of a dark Cobalt and took a stab at the proportions based on counting the individual bits of glass and Mother of pearl in the sample that was give me. Pretty far off the mark, but it created a sample that I have since grown to really like.

In the meantime I ordered some additional glass samples, one was still a little dark but another was a perfect match.

Then the most challenging, getting the proportions right of the clear glass sizes. The key, as it turned out was a "back to basics" approach. The mix designers at Icestone use a fairly standard aggregate size distribution. a couple of tweaks and boom.....Perfect.

The clinet then made the request to see more blue and mother of pearl and to add a slight gray cast.

These were easy to accomodate and now the client has a beautiful countertop at a reasonable price and it is 100% uniquely theirs!

PS. New Camera is friggin' awesome, Mr. Bigglesworth!!

Making a custom 1-off sink

This one is more of a technical "how-to" post, as well as an explanation of why one must charge a lot for custom cast sinks. Standard cast sinks are less expensive to do, because although you have to buy the mold, it can be used over and over, and that cost eventually amortized over the life of the mold.

This technique may not be the best method for this, but it is reasonably simple and requires low investment. It does, however, require an artists touch.

Step 1: Determine the client needs. Seems like a it would go without saying, but too many out there go without doing this important step. If you make that rudimentary mistake, then you have wasted a lot of time and earned an unhappy client. This client wanted a round sink, but not one that was perfectly round....she wanted it hand hewn looking.....the actual term was "hewny".

Step 2: Styrofoam Core. I use simple EPS sheets, which I laminate together with spray adhesive when necessary. Its the same stuff they make

coolers out of and I get it at Ace Contractor supply. It cuts easily with a hand saw and I shape it with a disk sander and some 150 grit paper. Once I get it close to size I smooth it with 220 grit by hand. Its best to have a good shop vac around at this point because you are going to look like you came out of a snowstorm.

Step 3: Plaster. The mold would kind of work at this point, but regardless of how much you sand it, the styrofoam would always leave a rough finish inside your sink. Hence, the foam gets coated with a sandable layer. I use curing joint compound, which comes as a powder, and prefer the 20 minute mud. I would imagine that straightforward plaster of paris would work for this, or premixed joint compound, but I am a big fan of the curing kind for speed and sandability.

Step 4: Repeat. Sand and replaster a few times, till you get it almost perfect, and then I fill in any final holes or bubbles with a layer of premixed joint compound (spackle) and let that dry. Final sand with 400 grit.

Step 5: Primer with Kilz. This seals the plaster coat. It dries fast, so it typically gets 3-4 coats.

Step 6: Gloss Oil Based Paint. Again, 3-4 Coats. I like to alternate colors....it makes it easy to see how much you are getting down.

Step 7: Make a drain. Foam with some tape around it is quick and dirty, or the appropriate PVC. Reusable rubber ones are available as well.

Step 8: Place and Cast. Definitely use mold release of some sort, otherwise the next step is going to be a real drag.

Step 9: Ta-Da, a sink. Acetone is your friend, as it will dissolve the foam and soften the plaster. some digging and scraping is going to be required, but then you are ready to sand the concrete.

Its a 2-3 day process to produce one, and when you get done you melt it.

The result is something that the client knows is unique to them, hence step one is that much more important.